| [ http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/one-reasons-i-run-motul-redline-10w40-not-any-50-weight-oil-383446/ ] "Here's a short list of reasons why I run it: 1) The ester based oils (Redline and Motul 300V) are much better at handling high heat than even PAO synthetics.
2) Ester based oils have also shown their resistance to viscosity shear. In UOA's (Used Oil Analyses) Mobil 1 sheared 30+% within 1500 miles. Motul 300V and Redline sheared maybe 1%. Motul 300V is rated for 0 shear up to 392f.
3) Ester based oils seem to have an inherent ability to resist acidity. Even when the TBN's (Total Base Number) are lower than other oils, they can maintain this TBN for a long time while the other oil's TBN's continue to decrease and this has been confirmed by Terry Dyson. BTW, both Redline's street oils and Motul's 300V have very robust additive packs suitable for not only running both on track, but also on the street and if you don't have fuel dilution or dirt contamination problems, both these oils can actually be run for long OCI's (Oil Change Intervals) up to and beyond 7,500 miles.
4) I actually spoke to one of the techs responsible for developing Motul 300V's new formula and asked him for a recommended oil weight for use in my car for roadracing after providing details about bearing oil clearances, HP levels (with e16g's based on what folks have been making at ~20 psi on e16g's), rpm redlines and temps. He immediately recommended the 10w40. Motul's 300V is actually used out of the can in racing applications (WRC and GT) unlike Mobil 1 who likes to lead consumers to believe that their OTS oil is the same as the Mobil oil used in racing when it isn't.
5) The natural polarity of ester based oils tends to make them 'cling' to parts they come in contact with. An interesting story is that the guy who formed BITOG while performing testing on various gear oils (in a machine he made) found that the Redline oil he tested was much more difficult to completely clean out between tests than anything else. In his own words, "The stuff is like paint. It sticks to whatever it hits and once it's on there, it stays on"
6) Motul 300V and Redline are both great oils and I will stick to them. Redline is a little easier for me to find (and it's a little cheaper), but I will switch up between the 2 a few more times and see what the UOA's have to say before deciding what I will stick with.
7) If anyone was still wondering, someone has performed a gas chromatography test on Mobil 1 in a lab and proven that a large percentage of it is Grp III hydrocracked dino. Read the link above and perhaps you might begin to understand why you DON'T want to run an overly thick oil. Not only do you lose HP due to increased viscous drag, thicker oil also causes higher temps. The bearing-journal interfaces tend to see much higher temps than a temp gauge displays and the tighter your clearances, the higher these temps will be. Using an overly thick oil can be one reason why folks pull the bearings to find that they're showing a lot of copper with minimal scoring of the bearings. the oil at the bearing-journal interface could be reaching temps beyond what the lead babbitt is good for. This depends on the different percentages of lead and tin etc. but can be as low as 300f-400f (yes the motor oil can reach those temps at the bearing-journal interface if you use too thick an oil). Losing the babbitt changes your oil clearances (and copper is nowhere near as good an anti-friction/galling surface as the babbitt)"
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